Saturday, October 13, 2012

Cornwall – marvellous Cornwall (and other such exciting happenings)


So, it came to be that Tigger found herself sitting on the floor of a rather marvellous room, the sunlight streaming through the window, her friend working away beside her, and, without even really trying, she solved a mystery that had been puzzling her for quite some time. Why was it that her bag had retained such a delightful smell of Frankincense for the past week or so? Well, that would be because the lid of the bottle of Frankincense she'd put in a little over a week ago (and completely forgotten about) had broken and the contents of said bottle had emptied into the fabric of the bag. Hence the smell.

Mystery solved and various bits of “sensible” typing-type work possible, the mood struck to write of the various wonderful adventures she'd been party to of recent times. And where better to start than an utterly fabulous holiday to Corniewallie.

*

I've been aspiring to “get into the swing” of holidays for a few months and in August the need became more acute so I delved into the recesses of the internet and found myself a surfing weekend in Cornwall – which was made significantly more attractive by the fact it would be hosted at a spa hotel, involve some yoga and be with a bunch of other people who fancied said surf weekend. Just a few months prior to departure day I also got myself my very first motorised vehicle (officially it's a car, but in my mind it's more of a van-car, but I can't legitimately call it a van, so, well, it's a motorised vehicle. My motorised vehicle, in fact) making the adventure even more exciting and granting it many more possibilities for brilliance.

[plus the drive was broken in each direction by an overnight near Keele on the way down seeing a dear friend I am really enjoying seeing more of, and a “tea and cake” stop near Newton Abbott on the way back. A 5 hour stretch seems infinitely more manageable than a 7 hour stretch]

Cornwall is utterly gorgeous. And rugged. And brilliant. And fabulous. But the absolute highlight of the weekend was on Sunday afternoon when the surfing-weekend bit was drawing to a close (the others mainly heading back to London – and work on Monday) and I found myself in Cornwall, with a car...on a rather grey and misely day. A friend had suggested an adventure a little way down the coast so I headed off. Finding the place of the adventure was very much the first adventure but it brought me to the town of Perranporth. My first “falling in love with” moment was spotting a small house up about 3 or 4 “flights-worth” of outside steps. It looked like a mini castle. It was obviously empty and made all the more romantic by a rusting hulk of a Morris Minor slowly being taken over by brambles and other greenery at the bottom of the steps. But my, the best was yet to come.

It wasn't cold but the dampness in the air meant there weren't many folk about. I had my brand-new walking boots on (huzzah!) and decided just to amble along and head for the coastal path along the top of the cliffs. But first: the beach.

If you haven't been to Perranporth, and, more importantly, to Perranporth beach, I have one word for you: Go. The “mouth” of the beach from the landward side is fairly understated with nowhere really “on the beach” to park. Meaning driving through Perranporth you could be forgiven for thinking the beach was utterly hidden. But walking out on to the beach all of a sudden the cliffs draw back and the most stunning expanse of cliff-lined beach appears. Breathtaking. And this is in grey clouds and miselyness! The sand, even on that grey Sunday, was sun coloured and, well, words can't do it justice. That expanse, the sense of space, the power of the cliffs and the continual ebb and flow of the water – a memory that is still fresh in my mind and will stay with me many moons to come. And that was all within half an hour of arrival!

It has been a LONG time since I've done much cliff-top walking and I've missed it. Tromping along that afternoon – spotting the few other people on the path, the waves pounding below, the path ambling and diverging and coming back together – was an utter treat. The adventure related to a cove which was utterly water-sodden by the time I reached it but alerted me to the fact that the funny “vents” I could see as I meandered were in some way related to the old tin-mines of the area. A very definite human impression on the landscape but one that was filled with mystery and history. The brilliance of being away from cars and roads – and just proceeding under my own steam.

The coast in that area has lots of little coves meaning plenty of headlands – and the sense of, well, excitement, of rounding another headland, seeing another vista, wondering how many more I'd see before I decided to meander back – brilliant. The exposed rock was leaching iron (and “rusting”) in many places and at one point I thought I was approaching a cliff-top graveyard...but no, it was (most likely) part of the old tin-works. There were remnants of walls and buildings, but what actually used to happen there remains (for me, at least) a mystery.

Heading back to Newquay (where I had a B&B for the night) I found myself utterly wiped out but even the next morning of having an hour of two of just meandering around Newquay was great. I saw the “house on a cliff” (reachable only by a suspended foot bridge which passes high above the main Newquay beach) and had a realisation that my weird sense of intimidation around surfers (that they're so incredibly cool) is just in my head. There were so many surf shops that all of a sudden I realised it was just another fashion – and although on the base of a “cool” surfboard in a “cool” shop, it did bring me an absolutely brilliant quote:

“Carpe Diem Does Not Mean 'Fish of the Day'”

Monday morning also brought me a series of wonderful events in a brilliant eatery called The Beach Lamb Cafe. On Saturday night the whole surfing group had gone there for the evening meal and I had utterly fallen in love with the place. They do a range of food but along with meat they also do great veggie and vegan meals – and as I was leaving they mentioned their breakfast. Now, breakfast was included at the hotel but as I was staying in a B(&B – but the second B wasn't included) on Sunday night I realised my opportunity for vegan breakfast had revealed itself. And my, it was AWESOME. Best vegan breakfast I think I've had ever. Yumcious. All the usuals but also some gorgeous “scrambled tofu” and great company – there were a lot of “regulars” coming in at that time of day (one of who I even managed to buy a screen print bag of an owl from, perfect for the friend I was seeing later that day) and I ended up joining in their chats. A very pleasant way to start the day.

And then – wow – the Lost Gardens of Heligan! AWESOME. I'm on a mission now to find out much more about the history of the gardens (there are plenty of books available – it's just getting to them when I already have a stack of books about 2 ft high next to my bed) but the amazing work that's been done – and continues – is utterly inspiring. Covering such a great expanse, the gardens range from woodland and “jungle” (which I didn't have time to explore) to a wildlife hide and the very beautiful managed gardens near the house providing an inspiring array of horticulture. One of the highlights was the pineapple glass house – which traditionally had been heated by manure being put underneath. Apparently pineapple “rearing” was the height of 18th century horticulture. Brilliant.

I was joined at the Lost Gardens by the friend I dropped off on my way home and, despite the various downpours, we had a lovely few hours. I very much hope to revisit the gardens several times over the next 12 months and spend more time exploring (and found a caravan park within about 15 min walk of the gardens which holds much potential for a week away with friends) but they have definitely helped stoke the gardening interest within me. And who said names never made any difference?

Ambling home I felt my first “with car” adventure had been a distinct success – and the immense sense of freedom having a car had provided was truly wonderful. I'd bought my Berlingo (who has yet to be named, other than “The Golden Chariot”) as my “holiday” car. Having resisted buying a vehicle for so long I have very much done so in an “eyes wide open”. Yes, it's true I do not need a car to survive. But I am increasingly of the opinion that having The Golden Chariot is enriching my sense of being able to “just do” - and will be a great asset to having adventures not bound by the limits of our public transport system. My plan is also to have a “forest fund” - and that for every penny I spend on the Chariot, I'll match it in the forest fund to be used, as and when, to plant trees and other brilliance. A kind of very personal kind of offsetting. Which, in itself, is rather marvellously exciting.

The Chariot has also been helping a lot with clearing stuff from my basement left by the previous occupants. Now I'm in Morecambe full-time just the act of spending an hour or two sorting through bits is a lot easier (hurrah!) and having a vehicle to get junk and cardboard and just plain rubbish out and to a place where it'll be dealt with is great. I just need to put some bike-hooks up in my “front room” in the basement and it'll be all set up to house the rapidly multiplying bikes that live at the house.

Continuing the freedom theme, last weekend saw a trip down to Liverpool to celebrate a friend's birthday. It was somewhat of a surprise party and as well as being really rather brilliant (I got to go to The Egg, which is always a winner, plus we went on the Duck Bus and I relocated The Chariot without – too many – difficulties) having a car meant I had a lot more flexibility to keep my own time, rather than being confined to trains and the like. And I could stow a birthday cake in the back. I've yet to dig out an air mattress and look at the feasibility of actually sleeping in it but I'm sure there'll be time for that, yet!

So, overall, I'm having a rather marvellous time. The sky is blue. The sun is shining. And I get to meet a garden (and its owner) tomorrow that I may be able to help tend. Hoo and, indeed, rah.


[And given it this started with talk of a surfing weekend: the weekend bit was good fun, with a great group of people – but ultimately I came to the conclusion that surfing may be fun but hasn't grabbed me sufficiently to get “into surfing”. It's given me the confidence to grab a board and have a play if I get the opportunity, but generally I think I'm happy just playing in the waves]